Patagonia is a vast region which spans the tip of South America. It consists predominantly of steppe; stony plateaus and ridges studded with thorny bushes. The Patagonian Andes snake from north to south down its western boundary, along the border between Argentina and Chile. Huge glaciers cover the granite topography, their icy tongues snaking into brilliant blue lakes.
I’d wanted to visit since reading Bruce Chatwin’s travelogue, In Patagonia, which narrates his travels through “the uttermost part of the earth”. Finally, the opportunity presented itself, and I spent two glorious weeks in the region.
Patagonia is really windy, especially in summer. It tangled in our hair as we picked our way across the moraine on the Base Towers Trek.
In Los Glaciares National Park I marvelled at Perito Moreno Glacier, a soaring wall of ice balanced on top of a turquoise lagoon. Chunks of ice calved from its tongue, crashing thunderously into the water. I crossed the border into Chile to visit Torres del Paine National Park, where the landscape is dominated by the granite spires which give the park its name, and which turn pink alongside the sunset or gunmetal grey beneath the clouds. Driving back to the hotel afterwards, rain softened the rugged landscape. Minutes later, as we drove past Lake Pehoa, a double rainbow arced across the sky. It was so beautiful it felt impossible - the type of sight it’s worth travelling across the world for.
Such is Patagonia’s vastness, planning a trip here can be overwhelming. I've still only seen a fraction of this enormous, gripping region, but here are a few things I wish I knew before my visit - a few travel tips for visiting Patagonia.
Summer is Windy Season
Patagonia is really windy, especially in summer (December to February). It tangled in our hair as we picked our way across the moraine on the Base Towers Trek. It howled its way across the steppe. It was strongest in the port city of Punta Arenas, where we were assaulted by gusts so strong that it was difficult to cross the street.
The reason for this is Patagonia’s location in the ‘roaring forties’ – between latitudes 40° and 50° in the Southern Hemisphere, where strong, often-gale force winds blow persistently from the west. Because Patagonia is an enormous, mostly treeless plateau, there’s little shelter from these gusts.
Strong, often-gale force winds blow persistently from the west
What can you do about it? Pack a windproof jacket. Layer your clothing (“dress like an onion”, our guide told us repeatedly). But above all, enjoy it. There’s something very exhilarating about battling the elements in such a wild and remote location.
Crossing the Border is an Adventure in Itself
The border between Argentina and Chile stretches for 3,298 miles (5,308km), bisecting Patagonia. Chances are, if you’re visiting the region, you’ll end up crossing the border. There are fewer crossing points than you might think, considering its length – mainly because Patagonia consists of vast tracts of wilderness with very few roads.
He was, we were told, looking for both drugs and money – we were held up while he sniffed out a solitary twenty dollar bill in the bottom of someone’s suitcase.
We began our journey in El Calafate, Argentina. Such is the road network in Patagonia that we travelled east, and then south, before heading west to cross the border at Paso Río Don Guillermo. We’d filled out forms in advance, and been warned that there are certain foodstuffs you aren’t allowed to bring into Chile (seeds, honey and meat to name but a few). But our guide told us to expect the unexpected. That however prepared you are, there can be delays.
Sure enough, when we arrived at Don Guillermo, a lonely hut in the middle of the windy Patagonian steppe, there was a sniffer dog who went through the luggage in the hold of the bus, and came on-board to check our bags. He was, we were told, looking for both drugs and money – we were held up while he sniffed out a solitary twenty dollar bill in the bottom of someone’s suitcase.
From here, we embarked to the Chilean checkpoint at Cerro Castillo, a tiny frontier town surrounded by rugged hills. The two are connected by six miles (9.7km) of gravel track. There’s something adventurous about travelling down it, traversing the wild no-man’s land between one country and another. There’s an excitement to getting your passport stamped at the Chilean checkpoint and being able to continue on your way.
Explore Beyond the Hotspots, Which Can Get Busy
Patagonia has become a bucket list travel spot for thousands. I knew this, but I had still pictured it in my mind’s eye as a rugged, empty wilderness - so I was surprised, upon visiting popular destinations such as the Perito Moreno Glacier, to find them busier than I expected. What I quickly learned, however, was that the majority of visitors don’t want to travel far; they stick to the main viewpoints and the shortest trails.
This didn’t apply on the Base of the Towers Trek, which is trafficked by day hikers and the thru-hikers on the W Trek. We’d set out early, but on the way back down we needed to negotiate numerous people coming the other way uphill. I was glad we hadn’t set off later – in fact, I wished we’d started even earlier.
I closed my eyes and listened. Silence, save for the wind skating over the contours of the land
You could consider visiting Patagonia outside of the peak summer months; in November, for the spring wildflowers, or March, for the autumn foliage. But even in the height of summer, Patagonia still has its vast open spaces.
Our guide led us on hikes where we were the only people around. We hiked a little-known trail across the Patagonian steppe. To our left were the charred silhouettes of trees, burned during a vast forest fire 20 years ago. As we crested the hill, I saw Laguna Azul laid out below us, and the misty blue silhouettes of the mountains in the distance. I closed my eyes and listened. Silence, save for the wind skating over the contours of the land.
Get to Know the Locals
I met some fascinating people while travelling in Patagonia. In el Calafate, a charming man called Gabo cooked us lamb stew in his cosy wooden cabin, the walls covered with British 80s rock memorabilia, Frida Kahlo prints and portraits of his numerous rescue dogs. In Ushuaia, we met the first veteran from the Malvinas War (the Falklands War, it’s called in Britain), who told us about how the conflict affected him.
In el Calafate, a charming man called Gabo cooked us lamb stew in his cosy wooden cabin
We visited a Patagonian estancia, or cattle ranch. The manager came riding out on her horse to meet us, long hair streaming behind her, followed by the gauchos she employed. Later, she told us how she’d swapped a job in PR for days spent riding horses through the steppe – and obviously, never looked back.
It’s not just the landscapes but the people who made Patagonia memorable to me. Take the time to get to know the people you meet along your journey. Their experiences and stories will give you a deeper understanding of this remote, remarkable region.
Don’t Skip Out on Visiting the Cities
Most people (myself very much included) visit Patagonia for the landscapes. But I found myself captivated by its unique towns and cities, and how they’d become established within such an unforgiving landscape.
Ushuaia is the world’s southernmost city. The population grew rapidly in the 1980s after the Argentinian government established incentives to move there; tax breaks for businesses and generous salaries. We visited the Malvinas War Memorial (the Argentinians refer to the Falkland Islands as Islas Malvinas), consisting of a large map and a perpetually burning flame. We sauntered down San Martin, the main street, which is lined with art deco buildings housing shops and restaurants. Nature is never far away – Ushuaia is surrounded by glacier-topped mountains and looking out onto the Beagle Channel.
El Calafate is a town located on the shores of Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina. We strolled along its shoreline to a viewpoint, accompanied by a friendly dog with a penchant for chasing cars. There’s plenty to do here, from heading to a local winery for a tasting, or visiting the Glaciarium Patagonian Ice Museum, which is housed in a striking contemporary building.
I particularly liked the atmosphere of Puerto Natales in Chile, located on the Última Esperanza Sound, with views of towering mountains across the water. We walked along the blustery waterfront, passing large sculptures including the suspended flying figures of the Monumento al Viento, and large concrete fingers pushing out of the pavement.
My advice – build in some time to explore Patagonia’s towns. You’ll get a fascinating insight into Patagonian culture, be able to meet the locals and try the delicious regional cuisine.
Patagonian Cuisine is Delicious
Since Patagonia spans two countries, you’ll get a chance to try dishes from both Argentina and Chile, alongside those unique to the region itself. The most famous of these is Cordero al Palo, or spit-roasted lamb. It’s placed on a wooden scaffolding and cooked slowly over a wooden fire, until the meat melts off the bones and it’s infused with a subtle smoky flavour.
Ushuaia, surrounded by the cold waters of the Beagle Channel, is renowned for its freshly caught seafood. I tucked into the legs of the huge, spiky king crab – it was sweet, fresh, and needed no adornment other than the melted butter and lemon wedge it was served with.
Vegetarians can try cheese and spinach empanadas, popular across Latin America. In Chilean Patagonia, look out for sopapillas, fried dough made with pumpkin. They’re served with pebre, a salsa made with tomatoes, onions, chilies and coriander. There are also plenty of products made with the calafate berries that grow across the region (which is how the town of El Calafate got its name). Calafate ice cream and calafate sour – a twist on the pisco sour – are particularly delicious.
Inspired? Check out our Hike, Raft and Kayak in Patagonia Adventure, plus our other adventures in Chile and Argentina.