The landscape of Norway is pockmarked by fjords; deep, water-filled valleys carved out by glaciers over a period of around 2.5 million years. Two of these fjords - the Nærøyfjord and Geirangerfjord - are UNESCO sites, thanks to their “exceptional natural beauty”.
I spent a few days kayaking and hiking the Nærøyfjord on a small group adventure. Around us, steep limestone cliffs rose up to 1,100m-high on either side of a narrow glacial inlet. Waterfalls cascaded down the rock and thundered into the water below. Forests cling to the lower parts of the cliffs in this landscape, while the tops are striated with snow. As you kayak through the fjord you’ll pass tiny villages of red wooden houses nestled in verdant grassland.
Yet despite its beauty, the Nærøyfjord doesn’t see a huge influx of tourists. When we were kayaking, I only saw a couple of boat tours, and no other paddlers. On our hike, which took us to the summit of Breiskrednosi (1,189m/ 3,900ft), there was only one other group on the trail. One of the keys to this is that the Nærøyfjord is indeed very narrow - so the mega cruise ships don't come in.
Remote, wild and beautiful - this Norwegian fjords trip was one of the most epic weekends I’ve had in a long time. However, with the benefit of hindsight, there are some things I wish I’d done differently. Here’s everything I wish I knew before visiting the Norwegian fjords, alongside some top tips for having a brilliant time on your adventure in one of the world's most beautiful spots.
You Can Experience Four Seasons in a Single Weekend
I visited the fjords in mid-May. Across our three day visit we experienced brilliant sunshine and cloudless skies, misty mornings evocative of autumn, rain and even snow, as we hiked up to Breiskrednosi.
I got pretty cold when kayaking back to base on the second day, and really wish I had started off wearing warmer clothes...
In short, weather during the fjords can be unpredictable. Don’t come here expecting brilliant sunshine, even during the summer months, as you might be disappointed. I'll be honest - I was when I saw the weather forecast.
However, there’s something very special about this changeable weather, and getting to experience the fjords in different conditions. One of my high points was when we reached Breiskrednosi summit and found the view hidden by clouds. Those clouds soon parted, just for an instance, to give me a view of the fjord below.
Whatever time of year you visit the fjords of Norway, make sure you’re prepared for all weathers. That means bringing a down jacket, thermal layers, waterproofs and layering up - also, sunscreen. I got pretty cold when kayaking back to base on the second day, and really wish I had started off wearing warmer clothes, rather than storing them out of reach in the bulkhead of my kayak.
Squeeze in a Wild Swim
Sometimes, when I see a lake or the ocean, I experience a sinking feeling - I know I’m going to be compelled to swim in it, whatever the water temperature and the weather. When I visited in May, the water temperature of the fjords was somewhere between 4°C and 6°C. Even so, I highly recommend a swim, even if it’s just a quick plunge - the cold water is exhilarating.
I had a dip when we stopped for lunch on our kayaking trip, when the sun was shining (and I was still wearing my wetsuit). But another opportunity presented itself at the hostel on the first night, as it’s situated on the shores of Vangsvatnet lake - and so, too, is its wood burning sauna.
You can either book a drop-in sauna session, or hire out the entire thing privately; it’s worth asking about it when you arrive, as it takes a while to heat up, and might already be busy. We chose private hire - throwing yourself in a freezing lake and then heating up nicely in the sauna was an excellent bonding experience to start off the trip.
You (Probably) Won’t Have to Do a Wild Poo
Whenever I look at an adventure itinerary, one of the things I most want to know (and hate to ask about) is about going to the toilet. Here’s the down-low, to save you the embarrassment.
There are lots of clean flushing toilets at the base where you begin kayaking, in Gudvangen - seize the moment. Along your kayaking trip you’ll stop a couple of times for a break. Several of these pit stops have long drop toilets (bring your own toilet paper with you). There are no toilets on the Breiskrednosi hike, but there are plenty of trees!
Different campsites are used on the Norwegian fjords trip, depending on availability. I was lucky enough to be staying at the one with a flushing toilet, but the other sites have one or two long drop toilets. They’re pretty basic, but for many of us, preferable to doing a ‘wild poo’ when you’re out camping with strangers.
If you do end up needing to answer nature’s call in, well, nature, check out our handy guide on how to poo outdoors responsibly.
Bring Waterproof Socks or Gaiters
The walk up to the summit of Breiskrednosi takes you through some gorgeous scenery. But parts of the trail were covered in snow, and other sections were sodden with meltwater. The goal: to stave off wet feet for as long as possible.
Waterproof hiking boots and shoes are, of course, an instrumental part of this. But even Gore Tex has its limits, and those limits might be exceeded on a 10 hour hike. Plus, the snow was higher than ankle deep in some places, and had a habit of sliding down into your boots.
If you’re travelling at the beginning or end of the season, I recommend waterproof socks, such as Sealskinz. They kept my feet dry for the majority of the day, although they were soaked through by the time I got back to camp. I definitely wish I had brought gaiters so that I could have had dry feet for the entire day.
Embrace the Opportunity to Disconnect
There’s no electricity when you wild camp (obviously). No Wi-Fi signal. And for some people in the group - including yours truly - there was no phone signal either. In other words, you’ll spend three days completely off-grid.
You could spend those three days bemoaning the lack of connectivity, and scanning your phone desperately for signal as you climb higher up Breiskrednosi. Or, you could tell friends and family you’ll be out of range for a few days - and then truly switch off.
Enjoy toasting marshmallows around the campfire, listening to the crackling flames. Fall asleep listening to the calls of the oystercatchers, or light rain striking the canopy of your tent. It’s a privilege - and a necessity - to disconnect from technology and immerse yourself in nature.
Pack Light For Your Kayaking Expedition
There’s limited space in your double kayak, especially when you consider you’ll need to help carry the camp gear, which includes tents, cooking equipment, sleeping bags and drinking water for everyone. You’ll be given a 22 litre drybag to fit all your stuff into, and if you’re anything like me, you’ll struggle to restrict yourself.
Things I didn’t regret bringing were a waterproof jacket, a fleece and dry shoes to wear at camp. And snacks, of course. You never regret bringing snacks.
What I didn’t need to bring: a book (talking to your group and enjoying the environment is entertainment enough) and pyjamas (just bring a pair of comfy dry trousers to wear around camp and sleep in). Things I didn’t regret bringing were a waterproof jacket, a fleece and dry shoes to wear at camp. And snacks, of course. You never regret bringing snacks.
Don’t feel like you have to pack ultralight when you arrive in Norway, though - especially if you’re travelling somewhere else afterwards. You’ll leave the rest of your luggage in a secure lockup at the base in Gudvangen, and will be able to get it back afterwards. Pack some toiletries - you should be able to grab a welcome hot shower at the base before heading back to the airport.
Stick Around After the Trip
One of my biggest regrets about my time in the Norwegian fjords is that I didn’t spend longer there. On the return transfer to Bergen Airport, you pass Bergen and can be dropped off there instead. There are plenty of things to do in Bergen, from mountain hikes to exploring art museums.
It’s also possible to stay in Voss (or arrive there a few days before the trip begins) as you can get there easily between Voss and Bergen by train - it’s a scenic 70-90 minute ride through the Norwegian fjords. Voss is known as the ‘adrenalin capital’ of Norway, as it’s a hub for adventure sports such as white water rafting, skydiving and much more.
And there’s also the opportunity to spend more nights out in nature. This 43 mile (73km) expedition through the wild heart of the Norwegian Fjords is tempting me back there already.
Don’t Miss the Hot Dogs
Food on this trip was tasty and abundant - but there's always time for a hot dog.
That first bite of sausage, topped with potato salad and crispy onions, was delicious. Reader, I had two.
If you find yourself in the airport hungry, and you only have a few minutes in Arrivals before you catch your transfer, grab a hot dog from the convenience stand. It’s a two hour journey to Voss, which is also the next opportunity to grab a bite.
Hotdogs are popular throughout Scandinavia and my food of choice when I travel in the region. They’re quick, cheap and tasty. There's a famous hot dog stand in central Bergen called Trekroneren. It's excellent - but equally, never has a hotdog been so welcome as when I returned to Bergen Airport, hungry after a day of kayaking. That first bite of sausage, topped with potato salad and crispy onions, was delicious. Reader, I had two.
Inspired? Check out our Hike, Kayak and Wild Camp the Norwegian Fjords in a Weekend adventure, and our other trips to Norway.