Nepal is a country that conjures up images of soaring peaks, fluttering prayer flags and intrepid expeditions. It is what many people think of when they think of adventure. Eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks are situated in Nepal, including the revered highest mountain in the world, Mount Everest, but as I would find out - there’s so much more to this country than its 8,000m peaks.
There’s a saying amongst the guides and the porters - 24 hour, dal bhat power!
I visited Nepal for the first time back in March 2023. During the next month, we would spend our time exploring the chaotic urban sprawl of Kathmandu and the chilled lakeside tourist mecca of Pokhara. We’d trek the Manaslu circuit and dive into the remote rural Tsum Valley, which typically sees only 300 tourists a year.
I've still only scratched the surface of this remarkable country, but if, like me, you're hoping to head out and sample the culture, the trekking and explore the remarkable outdoors, I have a few hints and travel tips which might be useful.
Kathmandu is a Sensory Overload
I didn’t really know what to expect when I landed in Kathmandu, but even stepping out of the airport was a shock. As Nepal’s most populated city, home to vibrant Buddhist and Hindu communities (and the jumping off point for most tourists), I probably shouldn’t have been so surprised at how chaotic the city was.
Walking through the crowded streets while dodging mopeds and cows was a sensory overload - blaring horns, delicious street food smells, less pleasant animal smells and music everywhere. Nepal will certainly make your senses come alive. It’s intense but you do pretty quickly appreciate it for its vibrancy. As a travel photographer, I really wanted some solo time just exploring with my camera, but it took me time to feel comfortable.
I started by spending a few hours in a western-style coffee shop in the Thamel area of the city, then ventured out with my partner to get the lay of the land. After that, I explored on my own, camera in hand, and had a fantastic time. Take your time to acclimatise, but also make sure you push yourself out of your comfort zone because you’ll be richly rewarded.
Public transport trips are an event in themselves
Having planned to do the 15-day Manaslu Circuit trek, our primary method of transport in Nepal was going to be our feet. But we also knew that getting to the start and the end of the trail was going to involve some public transport which, let me tell you, is quite an adventure in itself!
From the incense gently wafting from the dashboard of the bus to the door remaining open for the entire journey, to extra seats being fashioned out of planks that neatly slotted over the handbrake and the musicians who got on for a few stops to lighten the mood, this was a journey unlike another other.
At one point, one of our back wheels actually went off the side of the cliffside dirt track we were on.
This wasn’t a trip for the fainthearted. There are plenty of articles that warn of the dangers of the bus journeys, and ours was no exception. At one point, one of our back wheels actually went off the side of the cliffside dirt track we were on. Luckily I had the seat furthest away from the edge, and so wasn’t aware of what had happened until all four wheels were safely back on the track, but it definitely felt a million miles away from a National Express coach on the M6.
If you do need to do any kind of long distance travelling by bus in Nepal, expect it to take the entire day (at least). Our bus to the trailhead took 10 hours. I have no idea how long it was supposed to take, but make sure you allow plenty of buffer time for the bus to make as many stops as it needs to, for it to pick up passengers, animals and navigate the interesting roads. Pack enough snacks and water - although the buses stop do make stops along the way - grab a window seat so you can watch the landscape unfold and soak up the atmosphere.
You can organise everything in Kathmandu
I used to be a pretty organised traveller, booking everything months in advance. Lately though, I’ve become more spontaneous - and Nepal is perfect for that.
You can do the first essential things before you’ve even left Tribhuvan Airport. For example, getting a tourist visa is easy to do at the arrivals area if you didn’t do it online beforehand, although be prepared for long queues. Similarly, SIM cards are easily available inside the arrivals gate, where the companies will set everything up for you if you don’t have an e-sim.
If you’re going trekking, you can also stock up on medication in Kathmandu. The pharmacies will have all the altitude sickness medication, rehydration salts and diarrhoea relief tablets (if you know, you know) available without the need for prescriptions. You’ll also need water purification tablets as the tap water isn’t safe to drink. Most visitors to Nepal will experience some form of upset stomach either from the food or the water. You can bring steripens and water-filter bottles from home, but purification tablets are cheap and easy to pick up in Kathmandu.
Nepal is a Constantly Changing country
Nepal is not a country that stands still. I visited in 2023, eight years after the devastating 2015 earthquake and the rebuilding efforts were still evident - both physically and emotionally. Some reports suggest it may take decades more to fully recover. Crossing landslides was a daily part of our trek and as we joined the Annapurna Circuit at Dharapani, we found a bridge connecting two sides of a village had been completely washed out by some recent floods, and we had to pick across rocks to get to the other side.
The Nepal you see may look and feel quite different on your next visit, so be present and soak up your experience - it will likely be unique.
Nepal isn’t just reacting to the past, though, it’s moving and shifting towards the future too. With a lot of Chinese investment, the government is transforming the main trail of the Manaslu Circuit into a road for jeeps. Although this will boost the tourist economy, it will also alter the tranquility and feel of the valley forever.
A new law brought in in April 2023 now requires all trekkers to hire guides or porters. The aim here is to provide more safety to trekkers whilst also supporting the guiding economy, but it may also deter experienced solo trekkers and those on limited budgets. While this doesn’t impact group trips so much, its effects on tourism in general in Nepal are still to be seen.
And of the course the weather in Nepal is an unpredictable beast. Trekking in March, we packed shorts and t-shirts for the valleys and cities, but wore thick down coats and micro spikes for the mountain passes. The weather pattern changed during our trek, and by the time we got to Lake La Pass at 5100m (16,.732ft), we found ourselves in thick unseasonal snow.
Come prepared for all eventualities in terms of the weather, pack lightly but make sure you have warm and waterproof things as you never know what will happen out there. Be aware that the Nepal you see may look and feel quite different on your next visit, so be present and soak up your experience - it will likely be unique.
The trekking life is far-removed from the cities
We spent (a bit too much) time in Kathmandu before our trek, relaxed in Pokhara afterwards, and trekked in between. There’s much more to discover and I can’t wait to go back. What I did find was a big difference between the cities and the rural areas. Kathmandu and Pokhara both had plenty of cafes, wife and shops for last-minute trekking purchases. Pokhara had a backpacker vibe, with juice cafes, live music and more than a whiff of cannabis, while Kathmandu had so much culture that we barely dipped our toes into.
The rural villages were another world. If you go there to trek, then you don't really need amenities and facilities beyond the basics, but I didn’t expect the food to be the same all the way around the circuit (the Nepali Tourist Board standardise the menu in all the teahouses to eliminate competition) and it was a real moment of excitement when we found a shop that sold biscuits and toilet roll.
While some teahouses do have wi-fi, it’s usually not free or very reliable. But you don't go to Nepal for the internet, and the incredible night skies and peace more than make up for it. Just make sure you stock up on culture and snacks in the cities and embrace the change of pace out on the trails. Use it as time to disconnect.
Life takes place in the open
Nepal challenged me every day, and it wasn’t just the physical challenge of trekking in some of the most spectacular landscape I’ve ever seen.
Life takes place out in the open here. At Pashupatinath temple, I witnessed funeral pyres burning, and it was a strange feeling being part of a large crowd observing and photographing something that, to many of us, is usually a very private event.
As a travel photographer, it made me think hard about the ethics of documenting moments like these. Tourism is Nepal’s biggest industry, generating around $470 million a year, but its impact is complex. Even on quieter treks, the donkey caravans bring sackfuls of items that only tourists want into the valleys, and although this brings employment and income to the area, it comes at a cost. There was a lot of litter on the trails, and all rubbish either has to be burnt or carried off the trails. The more consumption there is, the more rubbish is generated.
Traveling in Nepal isn’t just about the incredible trekking and the friendly people, it’s also about seeing things from new perspectives. So, be prepared to have your eyes opened - and make sure you pack out your rubbish.
You’ll meet some amazing locals
I assumed that being in the cities, and then trekking a well-trodden route with my partner, would mean we wouldn’t have all that much interaction with locals. I couldn’t have been more wrong. Over the course of my month in Nepal I met so many warm and friendly people with incredible stories. Thanks to our guide, one morning we joined monks from our teahouse for a sunrise walk to a monastery, and one evening in the Tsum Valley, we had dinner in our host Bima's own house as the teahouse was shut. It was an evening I’ll never forget, huddled around the fire playing with her small son Tutankhamen, experiencing real life in Nepal.
We joined monks from our teahouse for a sunrise walk to a monastery...
In Pokhara, I took a cooking class with a woman called Rekha. We made Tibetan momos (steamed dumplings!) and dal bhat, the latter of which we’d eaten plenty of on the trail. There’s a saying amongst the guides and the porters - “24 hour, dal bhat power!” Aside from the cooking, it was meeting Rekha’s family, seeing her amazing garden and feeling her warmth that made the experience so unique.
I also joined a tour of the Tibetan exile community while I was in Pokhara. Through visiting schools, monasteries and homes and chatting to the community members, I was able to gain a tiny insight into a very complex situation and the diverse cultural landscape of Nepal.
If you’re open and friendly, you’ll meet some incredible locals who will share stories, smiles and hospitality with you and make your journey unforgettable.
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