I have harboured a desire to visit Greenland since my childhood. While other kids turned the light back on after bedtime to read a book under the covers, I was doing something much nerdier: gazing at the world map on my wall, tracing my finger over unfamiliar countries and cities and imagining what it might be like to visit.
Time and time again, I was drawn back to Greenland – a large landmass partially in the Arctic Circle that you never hear much about. I pictured glowing aurora, glistening, snow-covered landscapes peppered with igloos and polar bears, and a sense of magic hanging in the air. Yes, I was a big fan of His Dark Materials.
Walking the rocky coastal path around Nuuk, accompanied only by the soft, rhythmic roar of the ocean, the sound of my own footsteps and the sting of the wind on my cheeks...
Greenland is now a firm fixture on 'emerging destination' lists and roundups of the best places to visit in 2025. With an airport expansion in Nuuk and new direct flights from Copenhagen and, in June 2025, from New York - visits are set to increase, too. Most tourism is centred around the capital Nuuk and other towns on the west coast, but some cruises make stops along the east coast, too.
I finally visited Greenland in 2023, and I’m still telling anyone who’ll listen about how incredible it was over a year later (sorry). The one thing I can’t do justice to is the sunlight. Imagine the crisp, warm glow of a clear winter afternoon, and multiply it by 100. Walking the rocky coastal path around Nuuk, accompanied only by the soft, rhythmic roar of the ocean, the sound of my own footsteps and the sting of the wind on my cheeks, I had to stop repeatedly to marvel at the world - which seemed to have turned its saturation up.
The coloured wooden houses glowed, icebergs along the shoreline glinted, and even when the weather took a turn and grey clouds covered the blue sky, golden blades of sunlight permeated the gloom and lit up the mountain tops.
My childhood imagining of Greenland was no doubt influenced by colonial European tropes of the Arctic. I’d urge anyone planning a visit to learn about its history. When I’ve told people about my trip to Greenland, some have assumed it would be similar to a Scandinavian country, but with more open space. Spoiler: it isn’t. Despite being a Danish colony, it’s a self-governing country with a majority Inuit population. The official language is Kalaallisut, with Danish as a second language. The capital city of Nuuk has a population of just under 20,000, almost half of the population of the entire country. Oh, and there are barely any trees in Greenland – they only grow in a small area in the south.
Those aren’t drawbacks, they’re traits that add to Greenland’s crisp, otherworldly allure. The only thing that would’ve made my trip better was a bit of extra research. Here are some tips on visiting Greenland if it’s on your travel wishlist.
Want to whale watch? Go in summer
Greenland is home to several species of whale, including humpback whales, fin whales, bowhead whales and minke whales. Different species live in different coastal areas. Humpbacks, fins and minkes are commonly spotted along the west coast between Nuuk and Disko Bay further north. If you’re planning to go even further north, perhaps on the weekly flight to Greenland’s most northern town Qaanaaq, you could be lucky enough to see a beluga or even a narwhal. They’re some of the only Greenlandic whales that stick around over winter, and the latter can only be seen in the far north and around Arctic Canada.
Humpbacks, fins and minkes are commonly spotted along the west coast between Nuuk and Disko Bay...
When I visited Nuuk in October, I was hoping for a whale sighting, or even a seal – heck, I’d have settled for a ptarmigan. But wildlife was thin on the ground, as Greenland’s fauna had retreated for the winter - ptarmigans into their snowy burrows, and humpback whales to the Caribbean. Between April to November is the best time to go to see marine life. If you opt for a tour starting in Narsarsuaq in the south in summer, your chances of seeing a finned friend while on the boat from Narsarsuaq to Narsaq are pretty good.
Paddle down Greenland’s fjords
Whale watching isn’t Greenland’s only summer attraction. It might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of kayaking, paddle boarding or camping, but its extensive fjord system is perfect for water activities. Summer temperatures range from five to 15 degrees Celsius, with the south of the country generally being warmer, but temperatures have climbed as high as 23 degrees in the last few years (pleasant as that might feel, it’s a stark sign of climate change).
One memorable moment from my trip is taking a boat trip with Nuuk Water Taxi up the Nuuk fjords to Qoornoq – a former fishing village whose colourful cabins now serve as holiday homes for Nuuk residents.
In October, it’s a ghost town. Children’s play equipment stands eerily still under layers of snow; lumps of ice sit along the shoreline, and the cabins are deserted. Mountains and glaciers loom on all sides, and the silence is dense and calming. In the summer, though, it’s a thriving weekend getaway destination.
Read more: The 100km Kayak and Hiking Expedition in Greenland
Take a hike from Nuuk
Two mountains tower over Nuuk. The 772m (2,533ft) Ukkusissaq, which is also known as Store Malene in Danish, and its smaller sister, Quassussuaq (also known as Lille Malene), which is 420m (1,380ft high).
You’ll be able to see the fjord system snaking into the distance as well as the jagged peaks of Sermitsiaq in the distance.
Guided hikes with local guides are available from May to October, but experienced hikers can tackle either peak solo. They’re not beginner hikes; both are rocky and steep, but Quassussuaq, the smaller of the two, is slightly easier-going and the views from the top are well worth the effort.
You’ll be able to see the fjord system snaking into the distance as well as the jagged peaks of Sermitsiaq in the distance. This 1,210m (3,970ft) mountain can be seen from pretty much every angle in Nuuk, and appears to dim and glow depending on the light conditions. If you’re thinking of hiking in winter, you’ll need snowshoes and crampons, and of course, safety considerations apply – novice climbers would be best sticking to the clear summer months.
Free runs or slopes, Greenland is great for skiing
Several towns on the west coast of Greenland have ski resorts. Nuuk’s slope is the biggest, and there are two lifts of 100m (328ft) and 350m (1,148m). Ski season runs from January to April. Advanced skiers and snowboarders who want an off-piste adventure might opt for a ski-tour, while heliskiing is also possible from Maniitsoq. If you’re feeling particularly robust, the Arctic Circle Race – billed as the world’s toughest cross country skiing event – happens in Sisimiut annually.
If sitting down is more your thing, try dog sledding. It’s not just for fun – in the most remote regions, dog sleds are an everyday mode of transport and an important part of Greenland’s cultural heritage. The Greenlandic sled dog or Greenland dog, while related to huskies, is a distinct breed, and sledding excursions for tourists are part of countrywide efforts to protect the breed from extinction and keep traditions alive.
You can find dog sled expeditions in Kangerlussuaq or Sisimiut. Using a local, Greenlandic-owned tour provider (for all your activities in Greenland) is strongly encouraged so that Greenlanders can benefit from tourism. Also... fluffy dogs.
Go to a Thai Restaurant
Yes, you read that right – and Greenland has more than one Thai restaurant. The top rated establishment is Charoen Porn in Nuuk, and it’s well worth a visit if you like fish. There are vegetarian options in most Greenlandic restaurants, but they are limited. If whale sushi is a step too far for European tastes, order Charoen Porn’s Greenlandic coffee – it’s like an Irish coffee, but making it is quite the performance involving an ornamental drinks trolley, a blowtorch and juggling.
Inspired? Check out adventure holidays in Greenland now!