What better place to start a journey than at the end of the world? Tierra del Fuego - the land of fire - is a name that resonates. A place of legend, propping up a vast and complex continent. It was here that I loaded pannier bags onto my bike, layered up in thermals and began a long-distance cycling adventure through springtime Patagonia. Pura libertad - pa’lante! A solitary post office marked the starting line, with Antarctica beyond, but my compass was to be set in one direction only - el norte!
The sheer uncontested dominance of nature over humans in this part of the world becomes dauntingly obvious.
The rough plan was to explore the south of Chile by bike, dipping in and out of Argentina as the limited route options dictated, riding up along the length of the Carretera Austral - Chile's famous Ruta 7, which runs 770 miles from Villa O'Higgins in the south of the country to Puerto Montt in the north - and onwards into the Chilean Lake District. Adding in a few detours along the way, plus plenty of days off to take in the experience. Fortunate to have some time on my hands, I calculated that 50 days of riding 50km (spread over 90 days) at a slow pace was the neat-sounding challenge required to cover a total distance of approx. 2500km.
Part 1: The Windswept South
- Route: Tierra del Fuego National Park to Villa O'Higgins (776 miles/1,250km)
Travelling northwards across Tierra del Fuego toward the Strait of Magellan, which separates the islands from the South American mainland, the mountainous archipelago island flattens out into vast and sparsely inhabited flatlands. The barren windswept landscapes of Tierra del Fuego and the Southern Patagonian steppe are beautiful yet brutal. The sheer uncontested dominance of nature over humans in this part of the world becomes dauntingly obvious.
I will try not to talk about wind too much, mainly because it is invisible in photos and not a particularly interesting subject, but this long first leg of the journey would be by far the hardest cycling conditions encountered in Patagonia. Looking back now it is a proud achievement to have crossed this strange land by bike.
A fascination with the Andes mountain range was a reason for wanting to do this trip, and after weeks of flat windy terrain, the lure of reaching the mountains and finding shelter in the many valleys was enough daydream material to push me through the final stretch to El Chaltén on the Argentinian side of the border.
The spectacular backdrop of the Andes seemed to sit right in front for three days, tantalisingly close yet behind a constant wall of headwind. The prospect of drinking beer in the sun for a few days, and not cycling, was exhilarating.
I was struck by how quickly things could change; from being in quite desperate survival-like situations at times on the road to being back in civilisation surrounded by shops, tourists, and all of (well some of) life’s drippings. The careful rationing of food whilst on the road would transform into a splurge of calorie-rich feasting upon arrival anywhere with a functioning kitchen and food to sell.
This isn’t your usual border crossing. It is about 100km long and takes three or four days, involves at least two boat crossings, and features long-distance treks in between lakes.
A book unto itself, the border crossing from El Chaltén in Argentina to Villa O’Higgins in Chile was a once-in-a-lifetime experience full of surprises, challenges and natural beauty like I had never seen before. This isn’t your usual border crossing. It is about 100km long and takes three or four days, involves at least two boat crossings, and features long-distance treks in between lakes on trails where bikes and equipment need to be carried up and down steep narrow trails.
Part 2: The Carretera Austral
- Route: Villa O'Higgins to Puerto Varas (776 miles/1,250km)
And so the Carretera Austral - The Southern Road - begins. Ruta 7 is a spectacular route carved out in phases through the Aysén and Los Lagos regions of Chilean Patagonia only around 30 or so years ago, providing vehicle access to remote parts of the region and inadvertently creating an incredible road trip destination for adventurous two-wheel and four-wheel overlanders.
Much of the route remains very remote apart from the areas around a few towns further north such as Cochamo and Cohaique. The road surfaces range from barely passable rocky tracks to freshly laid stretches of asphalt. Whereas earlier on in the journey the daily concerns were very much the wind and lack of water sources, from here northwards on the Carretera Austral clean drinking water was abundant from the rivers and the condition of the road surfaces became the main pain point.
Each day at around 5pm thoughts would turn to finding a suitable campsite for the evening, the ideal requirements being somewhere sheltered, preferably hidden from the road, not on private land, dry, and close to a water source. Normally this would be a grassy roadside spot next to a river, but sometimes there would be an abandoned building or barn to turn into a temporary casita.
A detour off the main route takes you to the small coastal town of Caleta Tortel on the Pacific Coast, distinct for its series of wooden walkways that skirt around the water's edge.
Homes in the south of Chile are typically wooden constructions that are heated by burning firewood (leña) in a stove. Seafood and meat are the main components of the local cuisine, with hearty hot food being the perfect accompaniment to the often wet and cold weather. Salads aren’t particularly popular, but you will find delicious avocados (palta), tomatoes and other fruit.
The everpresent Chilean snacks along the route are regional variations of empanadas (fried or oven-cooked) and choripán, a delightful chorizo sausage and bread combo. Small celebrations with family and friends often take place in quinchos, a covered area designed for BBQing, drinking and dancing - what else do you need in life!
The rhythm of slow travel, and clarity of thought that accompanies it, has by now become the norm each day. Get from A to B, drink water, eat food, sleep somewhere safe.
Christmas day morning was notable for a 7.6 magnitude earthquake that temporarily turned the usually solid earth underfoot into a swaying ocean.
The road snakes slowly onwards, eventually hugging the shoreline of the vast Lago General Carrera, a glacial lake known for its marble cave formations. Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Villa Cerro Castillo, in particular, proved to be idyllic rest stops from which to explore the surrounding areas on foot.
Heavy rain accompanied my passage through the rainforest region of Queulat National Park. Arriving to the Pacific Coast once more at Puyuhuapi, Christmas Day morning was notable for a 7.6 magnitude earthquake that temporarily turned the usually solid earth underfoot into a swaying ocean. The epicentre turned out to be just a few kilometres away, close to Chiloé Island, and the town was swiftly evacuated because of a tsunami threat. My beach campsite spot was suddenly less charming. I swiftly cycled out of the town, pausing only for a glass of champagne gifted by the townsfolk who were camping out at the top of a hill; their Christmas lunch celebrations rudely interrupted by a force of nature.
The new year was spent in Futaleufú, known for its world-class river rafting and kayaking, trying to sit out the heavy rain that was showing no sign of clearing. On New Year's Eve, many of the townfolk descend upon the local fire station for the annual all-night celebrations. I hope no one was in urgent need of los bomberos that night or indeed the following day. Chilean tipples include many exquisite red wines from the central valleys, pisco from the north either drank as a sour or with cola, beer of course, or for an experimental option there is the terremoto (meaning earthquake: white wine, grenadine and pineapple ice cream!).
The final stretch of the Carretera Austral goes up through the Pacific fjordlands of southern Los Lagos region, flanked by an incredible medley of mountains, ancient forests and cold waters. Condors swoop silently overhead and indigenous Mapuche influences start to become more evident as you approach the heart of the Lake District.
The town sits spectacularly on the shore of Lago Llanquihue with Volcán Osorno and Volcán Calbuco providing a picturesque backdrop.
Ruta 7 finishes (or starts if travelling from north to south, like most people do!) in the industrial port city of Puerto Montt. However for me, a more poignant place is just up the road in Puerto Varas. Known as the gateway to Patagonia, Puerto Varas is an outdoor adventure hub and somewhere that I had temporarily lived seven years earlier. The town sits spectacularly on the shore of Lago Llanquihue with Volcán Osorno and Volcán Calbuco providing a picturesque backdrop.
As Patagonia is not officially defined on a map, it is hard to say where it ends and central Chile begins. The volcano-dotted northern lake district certainly holds yet more delights for adventure seekers, particularly around Puyehue, Huilo Huilo and Villarica national parks, and also amidst the lava fields and monkey puzzle trees of Conguillo National Park in Araucania province.
Looking back, it was an incredible journey through Chilean Patagonia. It took a lot in terms of perseverance but gave a lot more in unforgettable memories and learning experiences. The self-sufficient nature of cycle touring understandably isn’t for everyone; it requires time, preparation, and tolerance for a certain amount of hardship along the way. However, it’s hard to find a better way to really get under the skin of a destination at your own pace.
The star of the show for this journey was undoubtedly Patagonia - there really is no place like it! Friendly and proud residents welcome you into their world with buena onda, touched that you have chosen to visit this remote corner of the world.
Friendships and memories are forged in the mountains, fjords, rivers and lakes of Chile, at the craters of active volcanos, in the quiet solitude of wild camping, beneath the clear night skies, in the windy roadside cafes and the fire station discos. A gloriously diverse land of natural wonders, Chile te espera.
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