The Camino de Santiago is an interconnected network of ancient pilgrimage routes stretching across Europe to the town of Santiago de Compostela, the most famous of which is the 485-mile (780km) Camino Francés. Recently, the camino network has been extended into Alentejo, a vast wine-producing region in central Portugal, with the launch of three new routes: Caminho Central; Caminho Nascente and Caminho da Raia.
The Caminho Central is a 354 mile (570km) trail which begins in the town of Santa Cruz and passes through the rolling hills, ancient ruins and timeworn villages of the western Alentejo, including Alcácer do Sal, a moorish town conquered by the Order of Santiago in the 13th century (it became their capital for over a century). It links up with the Camino Portugués in Santarém, just north of Lisbon, which continues to Santiago.
Meanwhile, the Caminho Nascente (248.5 mile/ 400km) begins in Mesquita and takes travellers through the wine-producing regions of Évora, Borba and Porralegre in the east of Alentejo. You’ll pass through vineyards and ‘mondato’ (mixed forest of cork and holm oak), as well as charming medieval villages. The final few stages of the Nascente mirror that of Portugal’s Caminho do Este, which continues northwards towards Santiago.
The most recently created trail is the Caminho da Raia, a 192 mile (310km) trail linking to the Caminho Nascente, but taking you further eastwards and into the heart of Alentejo’s wine country.
“Raia means the region on the border between Portugal and Spain,” says Luis Coelho, who organises hiking tours in Alentejo. “In recent years, until the 70s, it was also part of a smuggling route. We were inside a closed dictatorship, like Spain and Italy. For long decades people were smuggling things from one side to the other. Things like clothes, sugar, coffee. The population from the border were keeping their families sustained by doing these extra activities, and then they were running from the spotters and the police.
“The Caminho da Raia traces some of these original smuggling routes. So you can hike as the smugglers were hiking. However, that specific Caminho is very new - you might reach a place where you want to stay overnight, and there isn’t anywhere to stay. So that's why you don't have many people doing it yet.”
One of the highlights along this route is Monsaraz, a hilltop town which has been settled since prehistoric times.
“Monsaraz has a lovely castle at the top of the hill with views of Alqueva Lake - it's wonderful,” says Luis. “For us it's something very special. People visit Monsaraz but leave in the afternoon - if you stay overnight, you get to soak up the atmosphere when nobody else is there. It’s also a good place to sample the local wines.”
The Camino da Raia will take you past the Alqueva Lake, the largest artificial lake in Europe, which attracts birds such as the purple heron, Eurasian wigeon and even the occasional flamingo.
The best olive oil in Europe, probably in the world, is made in Alentejo. You have some huge olive trees that have been there since Roman times.
“Alqueva Dam dramatically changed the landscape,” Luis says. “Alentejo was known as a desert, like Africa. Suddenly a huge lake covered everything. I recommend exploring it on a boat tour, or canoeing to one of its islands.”
The camino heads southwards to the town of Moura, which borders the lake. Here, you can relax on the town’s river beach, and taste the locally produced olive oil.
“For me the best olive oil in Europe, probably in the world, is made in Alentejo,” Luis says. “You have some huge olive trees that have been there since Roman times. Nowadays, with new techniques, they take the olives and in less than one hour they squeeze it.”
Wine Country
There are plenty of reasons why you should visit the Alentejo on a hiking trip. For Luis, the region’s viticulture is right up there at the top.
“Alentejo is a vast region, and the wine is produced inland, far from the coast,” Luis says. “Its unique terroir - characterised by hot dry summers, diverse soils (granite, schist, limestone and sandy plains) and a continental climate - creates ideal conditions for winemaking.
“The region produces a wide range of wines, from bold and structured reds to elegant and mineral-driven whites, as well as refreshing roses. Alentejo is also at the forefront of sustainable viticulture, with many wineries embracing organic and biodynamic practices.”
The region is also known for its talha wines, which are made according to a winemaking style brought over by the Romans around 2,000 years ago. Talha wine is made by crushing grapes and storing them inside large clay amphorae called ‘talhas’, where fermentation takes place.
“In recent years there is a growing recovery of this way of producing the wine and keeping it in these big clay jars. Some of those amphoras are so large you could fit several people inside,” says Luis.
“The grapes are harvested at the end of summer, and put in the receptacles. There's a tradition in Portugal to drink the first wine, which we call água-pé, in November with the chestnuts. You go to these restaurants which look more like museums because they have those big amphoras on one side. They will just pour you a jar for the table. It’s a very young fresh wine, but with a lot of flavour - the red is similar to Beaujolais nouveau.”
There's a tradition in Portugal to drink the first wine, which we call água-pé, in November with the chestnuts
Vinha talha is produced on a small scale, a technique that has been passed down from generation to generation. As it’s not exported abroad, you need to visit the region to try it.
“In doing so, you’ll be supporting a traditional business that for a couple of decades was decreasing or almost disappearing,” Luis says. “More people will remain in town, and restore the old talhas.”
Hiking through Alentejo, you’ll have the opportunity to try vinha talha, visit local wineries for tastings and eat hearty meals in local restaurants. In short, you’ll be immersed in the local community.
“We like to go to less populated areas because they all deserve our visit, and it’s a responsible approach to travel,” Luis says.“Some of the people don't speak any language other than Portuguese. But they will manage to communicate, even just by body language. You'll get your best meal if you go to a restaurant where no one speaks English. In Alentejo, you can have those experiences.”
Inspired? Check out our Hike and Explore the Wine Trails of Portugal adventure, developed for us by Luis.